1. Auto-Leveling Inaccuracy
What’s Going Wrong? One of the standout features of the Anycubic Kobra 2 is its LeviQ 2.0 auto-leveling system. While this technology should eliminate the hassle of manual bed leveling, it doesn’t always work as expected. Some users report uneven first layers or a nozzle scraping the bed. Why It Happens- Loose or misaligned Z-axis gantries
- Worn or unbalanced pulleys
- Improper nozzle offset calibration
- Dirty or uneven build plate
- Manually Inspect the Z-Axis -Raise the gantry to the middle and gently move it side to side. If it feels loose or shifts unevenly, tighten the V-wheels using the eccentric nuts.
- Check Pulley Alignment -Look for visible wobble in the pulleys. Misalignment can throw off bed leveling accuracy. Realign and tighten if needed.
- Adjust Z-Offset -Print a simple first-layer calibration file. Adjust the Z-offset so the filament lays flat but isn’t squished.
- Clean the Bed -Use a lint-free cloth and isopropyl alcohol. Grease and dust interfere with proper leveling readings.
2. Filament Jams or Under-Extrusion
What’s Going Wrong? The extruder motor spins, but little or no filament comes out. You might hear clicking noises or notice gaps in your print layers. Why It Happens -Nozzle clog due to burnt filament -Heat creep in the hot end -Worn or dirty extruder gear -Inconsistent filament diameter How to Fix It- Preheat the Nozzle - Set the nozzle to 260°C and let it heat up for a few minutes. Then manually push filament through using your hand.
- Cold Pull - Load a nylon filament, let it heat to 250°C, then cool to 90°C and gently pull it out. This can remove stuck debris.
- Check the Drive Gear - Unscrew the extruder cover. Clean or replace the gear if it’s worn or gummed up with filament dust.
- Replace the Nozzle -If cleaning fails, swap in a new brass or hardened steel nozzle.
3. Stringing and Blobs on Prints
What’s Going Wrong? Tiny strings of plastic appear between parts of your model, or little blobs form along the print path. Why It Happens- Retraction settings not optimized
- Nozzle temperature too high
- Filament absorbing moisture
- Poor slicer configuration
- Tweak Retraction Settings - Increase retraction distance slightly (4-6 mm is a good range). Raise retraction speed to around 40 mm/s.
- Lower the Temperature -Reduce the nozzle temperature by 5–10°C and reprint. Excess heat causes oozing.
- Dry the Filament -Use a filament dryer or place the spool in a low oven (45–50°C) for several hours.
- Enable Combing Mode -In your slicer, turn on “combing” to reduce travel moves that cross open spaces.
4. Poor Bed Adhesion
What’s Going Wrong? Your print doesn’t stick to the build plate. Sometimes it peels off halfway through, ruining hours of progress. Why It Happens- Incorrect Z-offset
- Cold or dirty bed surface
- Drafts or sudden temperature drops
- Warped print bed
- Recalibrate the Z-Offset -Adjust while printing the first layer. Filament should slightly squish into the bed.
- Clean the Bed Thoroughly -Use 90% isopropyl alcohol before every print. Avoid touching the bed with your fingers.
- Apply an Adhesion Aid -A thin layer of glue stick or painter’s tape improves grip for tougher filaments like ABS.
- Use a Brim or Raft -In your slicer, enable a brim (5–10 mm) to help the print base stay down.
5. Layer Shifting
What’s Going Wrong? Your print begins aligned but shifts halfway, making it unusable. Why It Happens- Loose timing belts
- Stepper motors skipping steps
- G-code errors
- Sudden power interruptions
- Tighten the Belts -Feel the X and Y-axis belts. They should have tension similar to a guitar string. Use the built-in tension knobs.
- Check for Obstructions -Ensure there’s nothing blocking the printhead or bed. Even a small cable can catch and shift the axis.
- Secure Motor Connectors -Sometimes loose motor plugs cause power cuts. Push them in firmly and apply zip ties if needed.
Install a UPS
For critical prints, use a battery backup to avoid shifts during power blips.6. Warping and Curling at Corners
What’s Going Wrong? Corners lift off the bed, and the model ends up bent or warped. Why It Happens- Large flat areas cooling too fast
- Uneven bed heat distribution
- Drafts from open windows or fans
- Use a Heated Enclosure -An enclosure keeps ambient temps stable, especially helpful for ABS or PETG prints.
- Turn Off External Fans -Keep the printer in a draft-free space.
- Enable Raft or Brim -These options increase the print base and minimize curling.
- Print Slower for Large Layers -Lowering print speed allows better adhesion for wide surfaces.
7. Loud Noises and Vibrations
What’s Going Wrong?The printer makes grinding or rattling noises. Sometimes it vibrates heavily during fast prints.Why It Happens- Loose frame bolts
- Worn bearings or wheels
- High acceleration settings
- Tighten All Screws -Go over every screw in the frame. Even a slightly loose corner can amplify vibration.
- Adjust Acceleration in Firmware - Lower jerk and acceleration values for smoother movements.
- Lubricate Linear Rails and Rods -Use light machine oil or PTFE-based grease. Avoid overdoing it.
- Use Anti-Vibration Pads - Place soft rubber feet under the printer to absorb shake.
8. Firmware Glitches and Screen Freezing
What’s Going Wrong? The touchscreen becomes unresponsive or the printer freezes mid-job. Why It Happens- Corrupted firmware files
- Faulty SD cards
- Power supply surges
How to Fix It
- Re-flash Firmware -Visit the official site and reinstall the latest version. Use a freshly formatted SD card (FAT32).
- Replace SD Card -Cheap cards often cause reading errors. Use high-quality, Class 10 cards only.
- Power From a Surge Protector - Spikes in voltage can cause weird glitches. Use a regulated power source.
9. First Layer Not Printing Cleanly
What’s Going Wrong? The first layer looks inconsistent or doesn’t stick evenly. Why It Happens- Improper Z-offset
- Unclean nozzle
- Bed not level across entire surface
- Do a Manual Level Check - Even with auto-leveling, check manually with a piece of paper. Adjust corners slightly if needed.
- Clean the Nozzle Tip -Heat up the nozzle and wipe with a clean cloth or brass brush.
- Use a Better Test Model - Download a first-layer pattern with large coverage to see where it fails.
10. Filament Sensor Not Working
What’s Going Wrong? The printer continues printing even after the filament runs out, or it gives false alerts. Why It Happens- Misaligned sensor lever
- Dirty sensor lenses
- Incorrect firmware config
- Realign the Sensor Arm -Make sure the filament triggers the sensor arm correctly as it passes through.
- Clean With Compressed Air -Blow out dust and shavings from the sensor housing.
- Reconfigure Firmware Settings -Make sure the firmware recognizes and enables the sensor feature.
Key Takeaways
Here’s a summary of major issues and quick fixes:| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Bed leveling fails | Misaligned gantries or dirty bed | Tighten Z-wheels, clean bed |
| Stringing | Retraction too low, temp too high | Adjust settings, dry filament |
| Poor adhesion | Dirty bed, Z-offset too high | Clean surface, recalibrate |
| Filament jam | Clogged nozzle, gear wear | Heat and clean, inspect extruder |
| Noise and vibration | Loose frame, high acceleration | Tighten frame, lower speed settings |
